Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Fabric and Patterns - Jem

So today to distract myself from a really bad anxiety attack, I went out to JoAnns yet again in search of a pattern.  At this point it was like wishing on a star.

I had already gone through everything in the Simplicity catalog in regards to dresses and blouses.  I decided early on I didn't want this dress to look like a costume but something I could wear out because why not?  It's Jem and she had some pretty sweet outfits. This one inparticular fits with the vintage theme but that's not why I picked it oddly. 

So I went into JoAnns and sat down at the pattern table.  I reluctantly flipped through the McCalls Cosplay book and then New Look.  I then side-eyed the Vogue catalog and wondered if I would hate myself for considering a Vogue pattern.  I picked it up. I thumbed through the front designer patterns. I went through Vogue vintage and then when going through the dresses I found not one but two patterns. Lucky for me the second pattern is exactly what I need with the exception of the mock neck which I will have to create for myself.  That's nothing new. I have done that before. 

I found my pattern and set off for fabric. Originally I was going to do this in spandex since I have loads of spandex on hand but I really don't want a costume look.  So I went for some more RTW fabrics.  I found a red pointe knit in the remnants.  I then picked up royal blue pointe knit but sadly there was no white.  After looking around a bit I decided on crepe.  

I have a personal vendetta against crepe.  My mother made me a Marylin Monroe costume completely out of crepe and from that I learned that crepe is pretty great at not ironing well and it gets bulky with layers. Very bulky. I remember the neck of the dress having really thick seams from all the folds.  I can't not mention that this costume was for my senior year in high school and my mom did not make the neck tight enough. She never had me bend over in the dress. I found out later that I was flashing everyone all day.  I was mortified.  However, crepe also resists wrinkling really well and I recall it having nice drape.  These are pretty good qualities for the skirt.

I then realized the dress had lining.  Now I am used to Simplicity patterns. They tell you everything you need right on the envelope. Vogue is not the same.  The envelope let's you know the fabric needed for the dress and that it's a lined dress with horsehair braid.  I assumed I needed a zipper.  I pulled out the pattern info which is probably the first time I have done that ever in a store.  I discovered it's s fully lined dress.  What they refer to as lining is actually underpinnings because it's not free hanging. It's just like my Meg dress. A dress with in a dress.

So I then picked up broadcloth in royal blue and white.  Cotton underpinnings, I am not about the sateen life.  I liked fabric that breathes on my body.

So after laying down and realizing at 11pm I still needed distraction, I went and cut the patterns out. I discovered that this princess seamed dress has cup sizes (win).  It also has pockets on one of the styles I am not using but I am totally incorporating those pockets!  Dresses with pockets are the best.  As I was cutting the patterns I noticed the bodice calls for fusible interfacing. THANKS Vogue pattern package.... Oh well.  That will be another trip since I am pretty sure I do not have enough on hand.

I can't not mention how AWFUL the gradients are on the pattern. I eventually got used to what lines I was cutting but my goodness it's like they want to give up before you begin.

However, after cutting everything out, I took a good amount of time looking through the entire pattern instructions making notes here and there. You know like how I need a 14" zipper and j bought a 22".  Thanks Vogue...

The pattern instructions are not for a novice but they are clear enough and not nearly as insane as I imagined (for this pattern anyway).  The actual dress is pretty basic to match up and sew.  It's the underpinnings that complicate the dress.  I also noticed the instructions are more compact and the images are much smaller then Simplicity.

However, let's talk about the ridiculous amount of pattern layouts!  Holy cow!  I get it, there are five variations but 2 plus pages of pattern layouts. There is more print dedicated to the pattern layouts then the actual sewing instructions. 

Funny enough I will not be using any of these layouts since I am splitting the colors of the pattern pieces up. 

Yes, I know the actual cartoon model sheet calls for black, hot pink, and white. However, all custom Jem doll dresses have been blue, red, and white. I will be a walking flag and I am okay with that. 

It's been quite a day. I am going to attempt to read, stay off social media, and sleep.